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Monday, September 16th: Peking to Suzhou.

9月16日，周一：北京到蘇州。
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Where are the roads?

路都去哪了?

Suzhou is a big city (pop. five million) 600 miles south of Peking on the eastern bulge of China, fifty miles west of Shanghai. We go there from Peking by gaotie, five hours and change.

蘇州是一個(gè)大城市。位于中國(guó)東部隆起位置，北京以南600英里，上海以西50英里，大約有500萬(wàn)人口。從北京乘高鐵五個(gè)小時(shí)就到蘇州，然后再轉(zhuǎn)車。

The interest of the place for us is that Rosie’s nephew Chiqian lives there. He is the only child of Rosie’s only sibling—her brother, who died of liver disease in 2007. Since Rosie’s parents are also dead, Chiqian is her closest living relative not older than she. A smart lad, aged thirty, still single, Chiqian trained as an architect and now works doing interior design for construction companies.

我們對(duì)蘇州感興趣是因?yàn)榱_西的侄子遲前（音譯）住在那里。他是羅西兄弟的獨(dú)生子，她兄弟2007年死于肝病。羅西的父母也去世了，遲前是她在這個(gè)世界上最親的親人，遲前比她小。小伙子很聰明，30歲，單身?，F(xiàn)在是建筑師，在一家建筑公司做室內(nèi)設(shè)計(jì)。

Idly gazing out of the train window, I am struck by how few roads there are in the countryside we pass though. This is the flat agricultural land of east China, populated and farmed up at the Malthusian limit for millennia. China has been busy with massive road-building projects for thirty years. Yet as we zip through the terrain at 180 mph, whole minutes pass between us crossing one road and the next. To an American eye, it’s odd.

我懶洋洋地望著火車窗外，驚訝地發(fā)現(xiàn)高鐵經(jīng)過(guò)的鄉(xiāng)村道路太少了。這里是中國(guó)東部平坦的農(nóng)業(yè)土地，在馬爾薩斯理論極限的土地上居住和耕種了幾千年。30年來(lái)，中國(guó)一直在大規(guī)模地進(jìn)行道路建設(shè)。然而，當(dāng)我們以180英里每小時(shí)的速度快速經(jīng)過(guò)這里時(shí)，兩條路之間足足走了好幾分鐘。對(duì)于一個(gè)美國(guó)人來(lái)說(shuō)，這很奇怪。

Staying at Chiang Kai-shek’s villa

住蔣介石住過(guò)的別墅

We are starting to get the notion that some nationwide directive went out that the Derbs should be spoiled rotten by everyone on this visit. Uncle and Aunt wouldn’t let us pay for anything—we almost got into fist-fights over it.

我們開(kāi)始有這樣的想法，全國(guó)范圍內(nèi)的指令已經(jīng)發(fā)出，那就是不能讓約翰·德比希爾（作者）在中國(guó)行中花一分錢。老姨和姨夫沒(méi)有讓我們發(fā)一分錢——我們還差點(diǎn)因此打起來(lái)。

Chiqian certainly got the directive. He has arranged for—and paid for—us to stay two nights at a special and very pricey hotel, the Garden. What’s special about it is, it was once a private estate belonging to Chiang Kai-shek. (Chiang was born about a hundred miles away in the next province.)

遲前肯定也收到了指令。他為我們安排并提前支付了兩晚的費(fèi)用，這是一家特別的而且非常昂貴的酒店——南苑賓館。這家酒店的特別之處在于，這里曾經(jīng)是蔣介石的私人莊園。(蔣介石出生在一百英里外的浙江省。)


As well as the Chiangs, many later notables have stayed at the Garden, most notably M Tse-tung’s hand-picked successor (until he tried to stage a coup) Lin Biao, who loved the place. They actually keep Lin’s car in a garage here: a great behemoth of a thing, Red Flag marque, license plate E 11097, badly in need of some detailing.

除了蔣介石夫婦，后來(lái)許多名人也曾住在這里，最著名的是林彪，他很喜歡這個(gè)地方。事實(shí)上，這家賓館現(xiàn)在還把林彪的車停在車庫(kù)里：一輛龐然大物，紅旗牌，車牌蘇E11097，不過(guò)這輛車該好好清洗清洗了。

Garden Hotel is a lovely place. In the lobby where we check in there is a little stage with, sitting on a stool and dressed in traditional costume, a very pretty young girl playing Chinese music on a pipa (Chinese lute). Oh, China.

南苑賓館真不錯(cuò)。辦理入住手續(xù)的大廳里有個(gè)小舞臺(tái)，一位非常漂亮的年輕女孩，穿著傳統(tǒng)服裝坐在凳子上用琵琶演奏中國(guó)音樂(lè)。啊，這才是中國(guó)。

Tuesday, September 17th: Peking to Suzhou.

9月17日，周二：北京到蘇州。

Sightsmelling in Suzhou

觀味蘇州
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Suzhou is famously beautiful. It is yoked with neighbor city Hangzhou in a famous old couplet: “Above there is the Hall of Heaven, below there are Suzhou and Hangzhou.” (It rhymes in Chinese.)

蘇州是出了名的漂亮。蘇州和隔壁城市杭州經(jīng)常出現(xiàn)在著名的對(duì)句中:“上有天堂，下有蘇杭。”(中文押韻。)

So there are a lot of tourists, including laowais, i.e. non-Chinese. We actually see a whole flock of laowais at the Netmaster’s Garden.

所以這里有很多游客，包括老外，也就是外國(guó)人。我們?cè)诰W(wǎng)師園就看到了一群老外。

“Flock”? I wonder aloud whether there should be a collective noun for laowais, like “school” for fish or “gaggle” for geese.

“flock（一群）”?我很想知道這是不是專門用來(lái)形容“老外”的集體名詞，就像scool形容一群魚(yú)，gaggle形容一群鵝一樣。

Rosie, who has just recently placed second in a marital tiff of the minor sort, suggests “a stink of laowais.”

最近在一次小的婚姻拌嘴中，羅西屈居第二名，她就暗暗地說(shuō)了句，“臭老外”。

I let it go, satisfying myself with a recollection of one of my favorite China stories, one I have told before.

隨她去吧，能讓我回憶起我最喜歡的中國(guó)故事之一我就滿足了，一個(gè)我曾經(jīng)講過(guò)的故事。

A dog’s life in China

一條狗在中國(guó)的生活

China’s dogs make an interesting study. There are apparently no leash laws here. Dogs just wander about freely. Given the conditions of Chinese traffic (the old Turkish quip comes to mind: “In other countries people die by accident: in Turkey we live by accident”) you’d expect Chinese roads to be lined with canine corpses. Yet in fact you never see a dead dog.

中國(guó)的狗其實(shí)挺有意思的，值得好好研究。中國(guó)在養(yǎng)狗方面沒(méi)有任何法律條文。狗可以到處亂逛?？紤]到中國(guó)的交通狀況(我想起了一句古老的土耳其俏皮話:“其他國(guó)家，人們因?yàn)橐馔舛劳?而在土耳其，我們因?yàn)橐馔舛钪?，你可能會(huì)以為中國(guó)的馬路上到處都是死狗。但事實(shí)上，你從來(lái)沒(méi)見(jiàn)過(guò)。

The dogs you do see are sauntering around confidently among the cars and motor-scooters. Twice I have seen dogs ambling across the road on pedestrian crossings, the traffic pausing or swerving to let them go.

你能看到狗在汽車和摩托車流之間自信地穿梭。我曾兩次看到狗在人行橫道上慢吞吞地過(guò)馬路，路上的車輛會(huì)停下來(lái)等它們離開(kāi)，或者轉(zhuǎn)彎繞過(guò)它們。
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My best guess here is that when motor traffic came up in a serious way some swift Natural sextion kicked in. Less traffic-capable dog lineages were swept out of the gene pool. I am, though, open to other explanations.

我的最佳猜測(cè)是，當(dāng)機(jī)動(dòng)車以危險(xiǎn)的方式出現(xiàn)時(shí)，快速自然選擇就開(kāi)始了。無(wú)法適應(yīng)中國(guó)交通狀況的狗被從基因庫(kù)中清除。不過(guò)，我也接受其他解釋。

Wednesday, September 18th: Suzhou.

9月18日，周三：蘇州。

The temple on Cold Mountain

寒山寺


One of the best-loved of China’s old poems is Zhang Ji’s “Night Mooring at Maple Bridge,” fully covered by me here.

中國(guó)古詩(shī)中最受歡迎的一首是張繼的《楓橋夜泊》，我在中國(guó)的時(shí)候讀過(guò)這首詩(shī)。

As I describe, Maple Bridge is an actual place in Suzhou. I visited it in 2001 but omitted to get a photograph taken. Hoping to rectify this, I now head for the place; but it’s having some restoration work done and is out of bounds to visitors. Apparently the poetry gods don’t want me photographed at Maple Bridge.

正像我說(shuō)的，蘇州確實(shí)有楓橋這個(gè)地方。2001年我去過(guò)那里，但沒(méi)有拍照片。為了糾正這個(gè)錯(cuò)誤，我馬上就來(lái)到了楓橋；可惜正在進(jìn)行修復(fù)工作，禁止游客進(jìn)入。顯然詩(shī)神不希望我在楓橋拍照。

The “temple on Cold Mountain” from which Zhang heard the midnight bell is open for business, though.

盡管如此，張繼聽(tīng)到夜半鐘聲的寒山寺依然營(yíng)業(yè)。

And business is definitely what they are open for. There are 1.4 billion Chinese, and every blessed one of them learned that poem in school. For the temple, it’s a gold mine. They have it carved on a big stone slab in one of the temple courtyards.

而且寒山寺?tīng)I(yíng)業(yè)確實(shí)是為了生意。中國(guó)有14億人口，所有人在學(xué)校里都學(xué)過(guò)這首詩(shī)。對(duì)寺廟來(lái)說(shuō)，這就相當(dāng)于一座金礦。寺廟的僧人把這首詩(shī)刻在了寺廟庭院的大石碑上。

Having failed to get a photograph taken at the bridge, I thought the next best thing would be to have one taken with the poem, so to that courtyard we went.

沒(méi)能在楓橋上拍照留影，我想接下來(lái)最好的辦法就是和這首詩(shī)來(lái)張合影，于是我們就進(jìn)了寺院。

There were a couple of hundred people there with the same idea. I got my picture at last, but it was a long wait.

有好幾百人和我有同樣的想法。最終我如愿以償拍了照，但是真的等了好久。

Now come on: How can you not like a country where a great throng of citizens jostle to have their picture taken with a poem?

好吧:一大群人擠在一起就為了和一首詩(shī)合影，這樣的國(guó)家你怎么能不喜歡呢？

Politics, East and West

政治，東方和西方
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Over the obligatory already-paid-for banquet—we are really being spoiled here—I try to draw out Chiqian on matters social and political.

在已經(jīng)結(jié)賬的強(qiáng)制性宴會(huì)上——我們真的被寵壞了——我鼓勵(lì)遲前說(shuō)出中國(guó)的社會(huì)和政治問(wèn)題。

It’s not my first attempt this trip. In Peking, also at a banquet, I’d tackled Rosie’s cousin (i.e. Uncle and Aunt’s son, thirty-something, senior manager in a government IT enterprise) on these topics. He hadn’t been forthcoming, but I put that down to his being a Party member.

這次旅行中，這已經(jīng)不是我第一次嘗試了。在北京的一次宴會(huì)上，我曾就這些話題與羅西的堂兄(即姨夫和老姨的兒子，三十多歲，在一家IT企業(yè)任高級(jí)經(jīng)理)進(jìn)行了交談。他沒(méi)有接我的話茬。

Chiqian’s not a Party member, so I thought he might be franker, but he’s just honestly not much interested.

我覺(jué)得他可能會(huì)更坦率一些，不過(guò)說(shuō)實(shí)話，他不怎么感興趣。

The Social Credit system? “It’s no trouble if you don’t do dumb things like drive drunk.”

社會(huì)信用體系?“如果不做醉酒駕駛之類的傻事，那就沒(méi)問(wèn)題?！?/b>

The Great Firewall of China? “There’s an app you can get, fan qiang [‘climb over the wall’]—everybody knows. I can watch YouTube, get Google, no problem.”
……
Like everybody else we’ve met here, Chiqian is pretty content with things as they are. Most Chinese people aren’t any of those things either, though. Most shrug and get along as best they can.

和我們遇到的其他人一樣，遲前對(duì)現(xiàn)狀非常滿意。不過(guò)，大多數(shù)中國(guó)人都不屬于這些人。大多數(shù)人只是聳聳肩，盡量和睦相處。

Thursday, September 19th: Suzhou to Hangzhou.

9月19日，周四：蘇州到杭州。

Railroad station nightmares

火車站噩夢(mèng)

Off this morning on the train to Hangzhou. The personal factor here is that one of Rosie’s college classmates, and so one of my students, now has a high position in the administration of a big STEM university there. She invited us to come and visit for a couple of days, staying at the college hotel, all expenses comped.

今天早上離開(kāi)蘇州，坐上了去杭州的火車。我們來(lái)杭州是因?yàn)檫@里有羅西的大學(xué)同學(xué)，也就是我的學(xué)生，現(xiàn)在是杭州電子科技大學(xué)（STEM科學(xué)、技術(shù)、工程、數(shù)學(xué))管理層身居高位。她邀請(qǐng)我們到杭州住幾天，她把我們安排在學(xué)校的賓館，費(fèi)用全免。

Our Hangzhou visit doesn’t start well. Hangzhou railroad station is about the size of Dallas, and not well signposted. We got totally lost on arrival, and it’s half an hour before we find our hostess, who has waited patiently for us with a college car and driver.

杭州之行一開(kāi)始就不順利。杭州火車站大約有達(dá)拉斯那么大，而且路標(biāo)不是很清晰。我們下了火車就不知道東南西北了，半小時(shí)后我們才找到我們的女主人，她和司機(jī)在學(xué)校的車?yán)锬托牡氐戎?/b>

(Hangzhou isn’t exceptional here. At this point I’m having nightmares about Chinese railroad stations. I could swear we have clocked up more miles wandering around the damn places looking for the ticket office, information booth, restrooms, or exit than we have actually riding the trains.)

杭州也不例外。此刻，我認(rèn)為中國(guó)的火車站簡(jiǎn)直是噩夢(mèng)。我敢發(fā)誓，我們?cè)谶@個(gè)該死的地方找售票處、問(wèn)訊處、洗手間或出口的路程，比我們坐火車的路程還長(zhǎng)。
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Language learning and mimicry

語(yǔ)言學(xué)習(xí)和模仿

Our hostess’s duties include supervision of the university’s many foreign students. When we get there at last around 11 am she excuses herself: “I have to go expel a student.” Off she goes, leaving us to settle in to our room at the college hotel.

杭州的女主人的職責(zé)包括管理這所大學(xué)許多外國(guó)留學(xué)生。當(dāng)我們終于在上午11點(diǎn)左右到達(dá)學(xué)校時(shí)，她有事要離開(kāi)一會(huì)，她說(shuō):“我要開(kāi)除一個(gè)學(xué)生?！闭f(shuō)完她就走了，我們?cè)趯W(xué)院賓館里住下了。

Later, over lunch with her, I ask her about the student she expelled. He was one of the internationals, from Morocco. His offense? “Marijuana. He was found in possession.” How did he get his hands on mary jane in China? “Brought it in with him.”

過(guò)一會(huì)，她過(guò)來(lái)和我們一起吃午飯，我問(wèn)起了她開(kāi)除的那個(gè)學(xué)生。這個(gè)學(xué)生來(lái)自摩洛哥。他犯什么事了?“大麻。我們發(fā)現(xiàn)他持有大麻。”他怎么在中國(guó)找到大麻煙的?“他自己帶進(jìn)來(lái)的。”

She tells us stories about the international students. A high proportion are from Russia and Central Asia, all part of “Belt and Road” scheme to lock the whole world into Chinese mercantilism.

她給我們講了些國(guó)際學(xué)生的故事。其中很大一部分來(lái)自俄羅斯和中亞，中國(guó)“一帶一路”計(jì)劃經(jīng)過(guò)這幾個(gè)國(guó)家，一帶一路計(jì)劃旨在將整個(gè)世界納入商業(yè)版圖。

There is also a number of West Africans, who, she said, get good at Chinese more quickly than the average foreigner. She tells the following story.

還有很多西非學(xué)生，她說(shuō)，這些人比一般外國(guó)人學(xué)習(xí)漢語(yǔ)的速度更快。她還給我們講了一個(gè)故事：

Some Chinese students were walking to class when they saw a black student ahead of them. He was from Cameroon, it later turned out — very black. One of the Chinese students remarked on this: “See how black his skin is!”

幾個(gè)中國(guó)學(xué)生走著去上課，他們看到一個(gè)黑人學(xué)生在他們前面。這個(gè)黑人學(xué)生來(lái)自喀麥隆，膚色確實(shí)非常黑。其中有個(gè)學(xué)生說(shuō):“看他的皮膚多黑!”

The Cameroon student stopped, turned, and addressed them in very colloquial Mandarin: Ni tama shuo shei?—”Who the f*** are you talking about?”

這名喀麥隆學(xué)生停下來(lái)，轉(zhuǎn)過(guò)身，用非?？谡Z(yǔ)化的普通話說(shuō):-“你他媽說(shuō)誰(shuí)呢?”

Other people have noticed the same thing about West Africans. I remarked on it myself when reviewing Tété-Michel Kpomassie’s book about Greenland.

其他人也發(fā)現(xiàn)西非人在語(yǔ)言方面確實(shí)有天賦。我在評(píng)論戴戴-米歇爾·保馬西寫(xiě)的《格陵蘭游記》一書(shū)時(shí)就提到了這一點(diǎn)。

Here’s some video of a case quite famous in Japan. The lix was sent to me by a reader. I passed it on to my go-to guy for things Japanese, a white American who lives over there and speaks Japanese. He:

還有在日本很知名度很高的視頻。鏈接是一位讀者發(fā)給我的。有個(gè)人我經(jīng)過(guò)咨詢一些關(guān)于日本的問(wèn)題的人，我把鏈接發(fā)給他，他是美國(guó)白人，住在日本，會(huì)說(shuō)日語(yǔ)。他說(shuō):
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I lived in Africa. I knew multilingual Africans. While all of them seemed fluent, none could engage in the sort of conversations you and I have had together in any language. They could not read Robert Louis Stevenson. When your entire thought universe has a vocab of a couple thousand words, I think its easier to move into new languages … Japanese people judging a foreigner’s Japanese? Well. No one is ever going to criticize a foreigner’s Japanese.

我在非洲待過(guò)。我認(rèn)識(shí)會(huì)說(shuō)多種語(yǔ)言的非洲人。雖然他們說(shuō)得很流利，但沒(méi)有一個(gè)人能用其他語(yǔ)言像你我這樣交談。他們讀不懂羅伯特·路易斯·史蒂文森。當(dāng)你思想世界只有幾千個(gè)詞匯時(shí)，我認(rèn)為學(xué)習(xí)一門新語(yǔ)言會(huì)更容易。日本人評(píng)價(jià)外國(guó)人的日語(yǔ)？好吧，還沒(méi)有人會(huì)批評(píng)一個(gè)外國(guó)人的日語(yǔ)不好。

A different friend, not a Japanese speaker but a race realist:

另一個(gè)朋友，不會(huì)說(shuō)日語(yǔ)，不過(guò)是以為種族現(xiàn)實(shí)主義者說(shuō):

What West Africans tend to be good at is mimicry. A lot of black comedians work that. Mimicry will quickly get you some way into a language, but no further. Your pal in Japan is right: you won’t be reading novels.

西非人最擅長(zhǎng)模仿。很多黑人喜劇演員都擅長(zhǎng)模仿。通過(guò)模仿能很快地掌握一門語(yǔ)言，但無(wú)法更進(jìn)一步了。你那個(gè)住在日本的朋友說(shuō)的不錯(cuò):他們看不懂小說(shuō)。
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


That sounds right to me. The early stages of language learning are mostly mimicry. Our hostess in Hangzhou speaks excellent English; but before we got here I spent ten days among people who spoke only Chinese (not counting the Mrs, of course). Rosie tells me my Chinese has improved considerably these ten days.

我覺(jué)得說(shuō)的挺對(duì)。語(yǔ)言學(xué)習(xí)的早期階段主要是模仿。我們杭州的東道主英語(yǔ)說(shuō)得很好；但在我們到這里之前，我花了十天時(shí)間和只說(shuō)中文的人在一起(當(dāng)然不包括我老婆)。羅西說(shuō)這十天我的中文進(jìn)步很大。

A mutual acquaintance

共同的熟人
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


Our hostess is a very busy lady. This afternoon, when she is showing us her office, two male international students come in with documents she has to sign—something to do with immigration. The students look Central Asian.

我們的女主人很忙。今天下午，當(dāng)她帶我們參觀辦公室時(shí)，兩個(gè)男國(guó)際學(xué)生拿了文件來(lái)讓她簽字——好像與移民有關(guān)。這兩個(gè)學(xué)生看起來(lái)像中亞人。

While the documents are being read, I ask the students in English where they are from.

我們的女主人看文件時(shí)，我用英語(yǔ)問(wèn)他們來(lái)自哪里。

He: “We are from Turkmenistan.”

學(xué)生:“土庫(kù)曼斯坦。”

Me: “Ah—Gurbanguly Berdymukhammedov!”

我:“呃，庫(kù)爾班古力·別爾德穆哈梅多夫（土庫(kù)曼總統(tǒng)）!”

The two students look at each other, giggle nervously, then turn away.

兩個(gè)學(xué)生面面相覷，緊張地笑了笑，然后轉(zhuǎn)身走了。

What is socialism?

什么是社會(huì)主義?

What are the Twelve Principles of Socialism? From one of the posters:

社會(huì)主義的十二個(gè)價(jià)值觀是什么?其中一張海報(bào)上寫(xiě)道:

Prosperity, Democracy, Civility, Harmony; Freedom, Equality, Justice, Rule of Law; Patriotism, Dedication, Integrity, Friendship

富強(qiáng)、民主、文明、和諧；自由、平等、公正、法治；愛(ài)國(guó)、敬業(yè)、誠(chéng)信、友善。

Wenming in the privy

廁所里的文明
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


Of the Twelve Principles, civility—wenming in Chinese—is being pushed hardest of all.

在這十二個(gè)核心價(jià)值觀里，文明是最難的。

China’s leaders have become acutely aware that Westerners regard some of their long-established social customs—spitting in the street, promiscuous smoking, fighting scrimmages to get on trains—as uncouth. They want their citizens to clean up their acts, as a matter of national pride.

中國(guó)人已經(jīng)敏銳地意識(shí)到，西方人認(rèn)為中國(guó)一些長(zhǎng)期形成的社會(huì)習(xí)俗——隨地吐痰、不分場(chǎng)合地抽煙、爭(zhēng)先恐后上火車，不惜打上一架，這些都是不禮貌的行為……

It’s working, at any rate in the big cities. I was astonished to see, in the Peking subway, people standing in neat lines waiting for the trains. (How do they know where to stand? The track is sealed off from the platform by a transparent partition, with doors that open automatically right opposite the train’s doors when the train stops.)

不管怎么說(shuō)，在大城市確實(shí)有用。我驚訝地發(fā)現(xiàn)，在北京地鐵，人們排著整齊的隊(duì)伍等車。(他們?cè)趺粗涝撜驹谀睦?鐵軌與站臺(tái)之間用透明隔板隔開(kāi)，當(dāng)列車停站時(shí)，屏蔽門會(huì)自動(dòng)打開(kāi)，正好對(duì)著車門。）

I saw a cute example of wenming promotion in a public convenience at one of the Peking parks. Set in the wall above the urinal was a card with the message: Qianjin—xiao bu; Wenming—da bu
“Advance—a small step; civility—a big step.” It’s a rough equivalent of the sign sometimes seen on American urinals: “We aim to please. You aim too, please.”

在北京的公園里，我看到了公共場(chǎng)所“文明”得到提升的有趣的例子。便池上方的墻上掛著一塊小牌子，上面寫(xiě)著: “前進(jìn)一小步，文明一大步。”這大致相當(dāng)于有時(shí)在美國(guó)一些小便池上的標(biāo)識(shí):“我們的目標(biāo)是取悅你，你要做的就是瞄準(zhǔn)?！?br />