漢服市場規(guī)模可能超數(shù)百億人民幣，你認為漢服是如何成為當下的一股熱潮的？

The market size of Hanfu this year may exceed tens of billions. How do you think Hanfu has become a current boom?

2021-08-25 admin315 25902 0 6 收藏糾錯&舉報

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The market size of Hanfu this year may exceed tens of billions. How do you think Hanfu has become a current boom?

漢服今年的市場規(guī)?？赡艹^數(shù)百億人民幣，你認為漢服是如何成為當下的一股熱潮的？

評論翻譯

Annie Ruth Harrison (安妮路得克里遜)

原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請注明出處

Hanfu is a term used for the historical styles of clothing worn by the Han people in China. It originated in ancient times.
It eventually became the everyday form of dress for women until the Cultural Revolution, when it was abandoned in mainland China as a symbol of the West and the bourgeoisie. Nowadays, it is acceptable in mainland China again and is often worn on important formal occasions such as weddings or the Lunar New Year.—Wikipedia
I’ve heard various opinions on it. Some see it as reviving culture, taking back their heritage and doing away with Western beauty standards. I say amen to that. While others see it as bringing back patriarchy and trying take away from the women’s equality gained after the Cultural Revolution. This is likely due to the roles women played while wearing hanfu in the past. Some people also fear the rise of Chinese nationalism. (As we say in the Southern US, bless their hearts. I’ll let someone else provide the translation for that vernacular phrase.)
Hanfu has transformed from a niche Gen-Z hobby to a massive consumer market of 400 million people in just a few years.
The rise of Hanfu is driven by a mix of rising nationalism, savvy local brands, and amplified social hype amongst Chinese Gen Zers.
For brands, Hanfu’s enduring popularity with young Chinese proves that consumers want brands to recognize their cultural heritage and break away from a Western-centric beauty standard.
According to Alibaba, over 20 million people bought Hanfu last year on the shopping site Taobao. In July 2019, Alibaba launched its Gutao App, a social platform dedicated to Hanfu shopping to meet the skyrocketing consumer interests. Shisanyu, a DTC Hanfu label founded in 2016, climbed atop the site’s 10-best-selling brands list last year and is now worth 16-million-dollars.
It seems to be more enduring than just a trend. Young people are proud of their culture and heritage. I watch the phenomenon with fascination as well as pride for the young Chinese people making their own way in the world. They are proud of their past, boldly wearing and styling Hanfu in the present, and I think the future for hanfu is bright and limitless.

Now young people aren’t just wearing hanfu but they are mixing and matching and making their own fashion category referred to as “漢洋折衷”(the middle way between Chinese and Western styles).

The historical accuracy of the patternmaking, the craftsmanship of the embroideries, and the hours of artisanal labors spent are all important metrics in uating a Hanfu’s quality.
But Hanfu fashion content is only a small part of that. The bulk of this trend consists of posts about traditional cultural hobbies people practice while wearing Hanfu, such as martial arts or finger dances. Hanfu KOLs have therefore expanded content from Hanfu fashion to a full-scale revival of Chinese traditions. @Shiyin, who appeared on the cover of US Vogue‘s March issue as the poster child for China’s Hanfu movement, has been busy launching a video series called “What is luxury” to demonstrate Chinese luxury traditions pre-Louis-Vuitton. @Gu Xiaosi, another major Hanfu KOL, pivoted her usual Hanfu beauty content to introductory videos about Chinese tea ceremonies and art history.
This is what excites me so much about the young people in China. They are taking back their cultural identity and that is beautiful to behold. I imagine their ancestors would be so pleased to see them going back to their roots, claiming cultural identity, being proud of their uniquely Eastern way of doing things.
For many young Chinese, wearing Hanfu has served as a potent gesture that reminds them of their cultural identity and inspires them to delve deeper into that heritage. Necessarily, this heightened cultural awareness will raise the bar for international brands wanting to launch Hanfu-inspired or China-inspired products.—Jiang Daily
There are some disagreements in the Hanfu community. Some believe only historically accurate versions can be worn, while others are more accepting of what has become known as “fairy” clothing. While others opt to mix ancient styles with modern western clothing. But one thing that does unite them is Xingzhi.
Xingzhi means the form, shape, and rule of hanfu, according to the history. It decides the shape of each part of the clothing, the cutting technique, the position of the vent, and other elements that affect the overall appearance of hanfu. All the interviewees told CGTN no matter what changed over time, xingzhi shouldn't be changed. —CGTN
I’m just enthralled with the beauty and gracefulness of it. And I am happy to see Chinese youth connecting with their past.

漢服是中國漢族人服飾的歷史樣式，它起源于古代。
它最終成為了中國婦女的日常著裝形式，直到WG時在中國大陸作為西方和資產(chǎn)階級的象征（symbol of the West and the bourgeoisie）被遺棄。如今，它在中國大陸再次被接受，經(jīng)常在婚禮或農(nóng)歷新年等重要的正式場合穿著。-維基百科

我聽過各種各樣的看法。一些人認為這是文化的復(fù)興，傳統(tǒng)的回歸，對西方審美標準的擯棄，對此我表示贊成。而另一些人則認為這是重提父權(quán)制，試圖剝奪在WG后婦女獲得的平等地位，這很可能是因為過去女性在穿漢服時所扮演的角色所致。還一些人還擔(dān)心中國民族主義的興起。

漢服在短短幾年內(nèi)就從一個小眾的Z世代愛好轉(zhuǎn)變成了擁有4億人口的龐大的消費市場。
漢服的崛起是由不斷上升的民族主義、精明的本土品牌以及在中國Z世代中被放大的社會炒作共同推動的。

對于品牌而言，漢服在中國年輕人中的持久流行證明了中國消費者希望品牌認可自己的文化遺產(chǎn)，擺脫以西方為中心的審美標準。
據(jù)阿里巴巴稱，去年有超過2000萬人在淘寶網(wǎng)上購買了漢服。2019年7月，阿里巴巴推出了社交平臺古淘 App，致力于漢服購物，以滿足消費者日益高漲的興趣。成立于2016年的DTC漢服品牌“十三余”去年登上了該網(wǎng)站十大暢銷品牌榜首，目前價值1600萬美元。

中國的年輕人為自己的文化和遺產(chǎn)感到自豪，它似乎比一種潮流更持久，我對這一現(xiàn)象既感到著迷，又為中國的年輕人能在世界上獨辟蹊徑感到高興。他們?yōu)樽约旱倪^去感到驕傲，現(xiàn)在大膽地穿著漢服，設(shè)計漢服，我認為漢服的未來是無限光明的。
現(xiàn)在的年輕人不僅僅是穿著漢服，他們還在混合搭配，打造自己的時尚類別，這被稱為“漢洋折衷”(中西合璧）。
版型的歷史準確性、刺繡的工藝和手工勞動的時間都是評價漢服質(zhì)量的重要指標。

但漢服的時尚內(nèi)容只是其中的一小部分，這一潮流的主要內(nèi)容是關(guān)于人們在穿著漢服時的傳統(tǒng)文化愛好，如武術(shù)或手指舞的。漢服“意見領(lǐng)袖（KOL）”將內(nèi)容從漢服時尚擴展到了全面復(fù)興中國的傳統(tǒng)文化。作為中國漢服運動的代言人，曾出現(xiàn)在美國《Vogue》雜志3月刊封面的@Shiyin（十音），一直在忙于推出一個名為“什么是奢侈品（What is luxury）”的系列視頻，展示在路易威登出現(xiàn)之前的中國的奢侈品傳統(tǒng)。另一位主要的漢服“意見領(lǐng)袖（KOL）”@Gu Xiaosi（顧小思），她把她一貫的漢服美女內(nèi)容導(dǎo)入到了介紹中國茶道和藝術(shù)史的視頻中。

這就是中國年輕人讓我如此興奮的原因，他們正在找回他們的文化身份。我想他們的祖先會很高興看到他們回到自己的根，認同自己的文化身份，為自己獨特的東方式的做事方式感到自豪。

對許多中國的年輕人來說，穿著漢服是一種有力的姿態(tài)，以提醒他們自己的文化身份，并激勵他們深入研究這一傳統(tǒng)。當然，這種文化意識的提高將推高國際品牌推出漢服或中國風(fēng)格產(chǎn)品的門檻?！L江日報

漢服界也存在一些分歧。有些人認為只能穿歷史上準確的版本，另一些人則更接受被稱為“仙服”的服裝，而其他人則選擇將古代風(fēng)格與現(xiàn)代西方服裝相結(jié)合。但有一件事能使他們團結(jié)起來，那就是形制。
形制的意思是漢服的類型，外觀和規(guī)制。它決定了服裝各部分的形狀、剪裁手法、袖口的位置等影響漢服整體外觀的因素。所有的受訪者都告訴CGTN，不管時間如何推移，形制不應(yīng)該改變。

我被漢服的美麗和優(yōu)雅迷住了，我很高興看到中國的年輕人與他們的過去聯(lián)系在一起。