VANCOUVER — Cheese sticks and a bagel. A boiled egg with raw broccoli. A fat ball of burrata cheese sitting atop a pile of green grapes.

溫哥華——奶酪條和百吉餅。一個煮雞蛋配生西蘭花。一大塊布拉塔奶酪放在一堆綠葡萄上。

Welcome to the divisive world of "white people food," a movement that has exploded in popularity among Chinese Canadian communities, both as an internet hashtag and lifestyle philosophy.

歡迎來到“白人食品”的分裂世界,這個運動在加拿大華人社區(qū)中迅速流行起來,成為了一個互聯(lián)網(wǎng)的標(biāo)簽和生活哲學(xué)。
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At its core are depictions of simple — some might say depressing — meals. Plain, often raw, and devoid of sauces and flourish, the meals are a source of bafflement for some but inspiration for others.

這個運動的核心是對簡單(有人可能說令人沮喪)的餐食的描繪。這些餐食通常樸實無華,常常生食,不加調(diào)料,沒有繁復(fù)的裝飾,對一些人來說是令人困惑的,但對另一些人來說則是靈感之源。

It echoes the recent Chinese social movement to "lie down flat.” A rejection of the relentless pace of the so-called 996 lifestyle, working 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., six days a week, that was once seen as an essential ingredient of Chinese success.

這與最近的中國社會運動“躺平”相呼應(yīng)。這是對所謂的996工作制的拒絕,這種工作制曾被視為中國成功的重要組成部分,每天從早上9點工作到晚上9點,一周工作6天。

University of British Columbia sociology professor Amy Hanser said the "white people food" movement symbolizes a mindset shift among younger Chinese, and a counter to a life of long toil.

不列顛哥倫比亞大學(xué)社會學(xué)教授Amy Hanser表示,“白人食品”運動象征著年輕華人的心態(tài)轉(zhuǎn)變,對長期勞累的生活形式形成了反思。

“It's not about the pleasure of eating the texture of the food. It's just like: 'this is good fibre and lots of nutrients and I'm going to eat it,' and I think that is actually a very American way of thinking about eating," said Hanser, whose research centres on work, gender and contemporary China.

她的研究主要集中在工作、性別和當(dāng)代中國方面。她說:“這與享受食物口感的快樂無關(guān)。這只是:‘這是一種好的纖維和豐富營養(yǎng),我要吃掉它’。我認(rèn)為這實際上是一種非常美國化的飲食方式?!?/b>

A typical lunch box for Vancouver resident and "white people food" fan Shawn Liang consists of a boiled egg, fresh broccoli, a slice of ham, cheese and a piece of whole-grain bread.

溫哥華居民、也是“白人食品”迷的梁Shawn的午餐盒通常包括一個煮雞蛋、新鮮的西蘭花、一片火腿、奶酪和一片全麥面包。

He said in an interview in Mandarin that he once would have found such a meal difficult to swallow. Now he can't live without it.

他在接受采訪時用普通話表示,以前他可能很難接受這樣的餐食。現(xiàn)在他離不開它了。

Liang, who immigrated from Beijing six years ago, said cooking Chinese food can be time-consuming, labour-intensive and pricey.

梁Shawn六年前從北京移民到加拿大,他說烹飪中國食物耗時、勞力和昂貴。

“Unfortunately, young people are always broke, overworked and don't have time," said Liang.

他說:“不幸的是,年輕人總是一貧如洗、過勞,并且沒有時間?!?/b>

A lunch box of crackers and cold cuts might not sound worthy of fanfare, but University of British Columbia graduate student Lesley Pen recently shared a photo of the meal on social media with the Chinese-language "white people food" hashtag. She says she "fell in love" with such fare.

一盒餅干和冷切肉并不像是值得炒作的餐食,但不列顛哥倫比亞大學(xué)研究生Lesley Pen最近在社交媒體上使用了中文的“白人食品”標(biāo)簽分享了這頓飯的照片。她說她“愛上了”這樣的餐食。
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“Compared with traditional Chinese cuisines, which usually require lots of stir-frying, heavily relying on rich seasonings and sauces — white people food doesn't need any of these,” said Pen, a Richmond, B.C., resident who is majoring in food and environment, and economics.

她正在學(xué)習(xí)食品與環(huán)境經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)專業(yè),是一位居住在卑詩省里士滿市的居民。她說:“與通常需要大量炒菜、嚴(yán)重依賴濃郁調(diào)料和醬汁的傳統(tǒng)中國菜相比,白人食品不需要這些?!?/b>

“As a new immigrant who lives on my own and needs to juggle school and work, I find these meals are so simple and convenient to make,” Pen said in Mandarin, adding that they are also a dietary choice.

她用普通話表示:“作為一個獨自生活、需要平衡學(xué)業(yè)和工作的新移民,我發(fā)現(xiàn)這些餐食簡單方便?!彼a(bǔ)充說,這也是一種飲食選擇。

Pen said that "white people food" was a vague concept, but in essence meant keeping meals as “effortless and waste free” as possible.

Pen表示,“白人食品”是一個模糊的概念,但實質(zhì)上是盡可能地保持餐食“輕松和無浪費”。

Yi Gu, an associate professor at the Department of History at the University of Toronto, said many Chinese in the “l(fā)ying flat generation” have turned toward self-care, given up demanding jobs, focused more on simple joys in life, and rejected excessive consumption.

多倫多大學(xué)歷史系副教授Yi Gu表示,許多“躺平一代”的中國人轉(zhuǎn)向自我照顧,放棄苛刻的工作,更專注于生活中的簡單樂趣,并拒絕過度消費。

But she said the white people food movement could also be about the relatively high costs of a cooked business lunch.

但她說,“白人食品”運動也可能與烹飪商務(wù)午餐的相對高成本有關(guān)。

The concept is not new, but there has been a wave of Chinese-language discussion about "white people food" around the world since a video of a woman eating a bag of lettuce and slices of ham on a train in Switzerland sparked wonder. The video went viral on the Chinese-language social media platform Red Book last month.

這個概念并不新鮮,但自從一個在瑞士火車上吃生菜和火腿片的女子的視頻在中國社交媒體平臺“小紅書”上引起了轟動后,全球范圍內(nèi)關(guān)于“白人食品”的中文討論就一發(fā)不可收拾了。

The initial response to such meals was bewilderment.

對于這樣的餐食的最初反應(yīng)是困惑。
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"I have tried baby carrots dipped in hummus. They made me feel worse than death," wrote one person on Red Book.

小紅書上有人寫道:“我嘗試過蘸著鷹嘴豆泥吃胡蘿卜條。那簡直比死還難受?!?/b>

But the mood has shifted to praise for low-effort meals.

但情緒逐漸轉(zhuǎn)向?qū)@種低投入餐食的贊揚。

Eva Wu, who works for a global tech company in Vancouver, said she's a fan.

溫哥華一家全球科技公司的員工Eva Wu表示自己是一個粉絲。

“Here's the best part: these lunches are actually good for you and won't leave you snoozing at your desk,” said Wu, whose lunch usually consists of yogurt, a cheese stick and a tinysandwich.

她說:“最好的是,這些午餐實際上對你有益,不會讓你在辦公桌上打瞌睡。”她的午餐通常包括酸奶、一根奶酪條和一個小三明治。

But Wu doesn't call her meals "white people food," saying it sounds “overly generalized and racist.” Instead, she calls them “l(fā)ocal-style light lunches.”

但Eva Wu并不稱呼自己的餐食為“白人食品”,她認(rèn)為這聽起來“過于籠統(tǒng)和種族主義”。相反,她稱之為“當(dāng)?shù)仫L(fēng)格的簡便午餐”。

Tammara Soma, an assistant professor at the School of Resource and Environmental Management at Simon Fraser University, agreed the term could be potentially offensive.

西蒙菲莎大學(xué)資源與環(huán)境管理學(xué)院的助理教授塔Tammara Soma表示,這個術(shù)語可能具有冒犯性。

However, Soma said the trend could also be understood as a way of “reclaiming the sarcasm” to show different cultural perspectives, since people from non-white cultural backgrounds are sometimes teased about their food being "odd and exotic."

然而,Soma表示,這一趨勢也可以理解為一種“重新拿回諷刺”的方式,展示不同的文化視角,因為非白人文化背景的人有時會被取笑他們的食物“奇特和異國情調(diào)”。

“It’s kind of like the opposite response to the fact that non-white people’s food has generally been stereotyped,” said Soma.

索瑪說:“這有點像對非白人食物普遍被刻板化的相反回應(yīng)。”

Hanser, the sociologist, said there is a clear Chinese generational change at play. Some in older generations had high expectations for themselves and thrived in a competitive environment, while some younger Chinese now prefer to follow their heart.

Hanser這位社會學(xué)家表示,這其中有一個明顯的中國年輕一代的變化。一些年長一代人對自己有很高的期望,并在競爭激烈的環(huán)境中取得了成功,而一些年輕的華人現(xiàn)在更愿意跟隨自己的內(nèi)心。

“The younger generation is willing to try different things, experiment and see how they feel. There is a kind of openness to new experiences that goes with this trend as well,” said Hanser.

她說:“年輕一代愿意嘗試不同的事物,進(jìn)行實驗并看看自己的感受。這一趨勢也伴隨著對新體驗的開放心態(tài)。”

Richard Tang, a Vancouver TV camera operator, says he has been eating fresh fruits and vegetables for lunch for five years.

溫哥華電視攝影師理Richard Tang表示他已經(jīng)連續(xù)五年午餐都吃新鮮水果和蔬菜。

But Tang said in an interview in Mandarin that he made his simple meal “as multicultural as Canada” by including a clay-oven roll, a Chinese-style bread with sesame seeds.

但唐在接受普通話采訪時說,他通過添加一個帶芝麻的中國式陶爐面包,使他簡單的餐食“多元文化如同加拿大”。

“It’s baked by my wife with love as the ingredient,” chuckled Tang. “Parking my car in a quiet neighbourhood, enjoying my lunch and listening to a podcast — it's the loveliest time of my day.”

唐笑著說:“這是我妻子用愛作為成分烘焙的?!薄皩⑽业能囃T谝粋€安靜的社區(qū),享受我的午餐并聽廣播——這是我一天中最美好的時光。”

This report by The Canadian Press was first published June 16, 2023.
This story was produced with the financial assistance of the Meta and Canadian Press News Fellowship.
Nono Shen, The Canadian Press

這篇報道由The Canadian Press)2023年6月16日首次發(fā)布。
得到了Meta和Canadian Press News獎學(xué)金的資助。