題圖：從開往博德的火車最后一節(jié)車廂看到的景色可能看起來像中午，但實(shí)際上已經(jīng)是凌晨3點(diǎn)，在極晝期間，太陽不會(huì)在北極圈內(nèi)落下。

The attendant, Tor Helge, potters around the dining car, his whistling presence companionship enough as I look out onto the Gudbrandsdalsl?gen, one of Norway’s longest rivers, its waters twinkling in the light. Like Christmas trees on stilts, pencil-thin pines fringe its banks and a sandy islet rises up like a backbone between the flow.

服務(wù)員托爾-海爾格在餐車周圍忙碌著，他的口哨聲足以陪伴我眺望挪威最長的河流之一，居德布蘭達(dá)爾河(Gudbrandsdalsl?gen)，陽光下的河水，波光粼粼。鉛筆粗細(xì)的松樹就像踩在高蹺上的圣誕樹，在河岸兩旁熠熠生輝，還有一個(gè)沙洲像脊梁一樣聳立中分了流水。

Whispering alongside, the train leans into a turn before we swing wide and I edge towards the window, spotting a handful of people fly-fishing for trout, pike and perch, waders up to their thighs. Hikers appear on a pathway and a group of cyclists glance sideways as we pass. The sky’s a milky blue, sunshine glinting on the peaks of the Dovrefjell mountains — it’s a classic summer scene. Only one thing’s different: I glance down at my watch and it’s 3.50am.

火車悄無聲息地駛過，在轉(zhuǎn)彎之前，我們晃動(dòng)了一下，我向窗邊看去，發(fā)現(xiàn)有幾個(gè)人在飛釣鱒魚、梭子魚和鱸魚，涉水已深至大腿。徒步旅行者走在一條小路上，我們經(jīng)過時(shí)，一群騎自行車的人投來輕輕一瞥。天空呈現(xiàn)出混著乳白的藍(lán)色，陽光在多夫勒山峰上閃爍，這是一幅典型的夏日景象。只有一點(diǎn)不同：我低頭看了一眼手表，現(xiàn)在是凌晨3點(diǎn)50分了。

With a mild ache behind my eyes, I’m urging my body to adjust its circadian rhythms to the natural phenomenon of Norway’s midnight sun. North of the Arctic Circle, from mid-May to mid-July, the sun stays above the horizon, with no distinction between night and day. During this period, Norwegians embrace the gift of time — and light — by hiking, fishing, climbing, sailing, sea kayaking and generally roaming around drinking and partying in the soft orange glow of ‘night’.

我的眼睛微微發(fā)痛，正催促身體調(diào)整晝夜節(jié)律，以適應(yīng)挪威午夜太陽的自然現(xiàn)象。在北極圈以北，從五月中旬到七月中旬，太陽一直停留在地平線以上，晝夜不分。在此期間，挪威人擁抱時(shí)間與光明的恩賜，去徒步旅行、釣魚、登山、帆船、海上皮劃艇，在“夜晚”柔和的橙色光芒中暢飲狂歡。

Intrigued by the idea of groundhog daytime, I’m taking the sleeper train from the capital, Oslo, up to Trondheim on the 300-mile Dovre Railway. From Trondheim, I’ll transfer onto the Nordland Railway, which weaves up the country for another 450 miles to Bod? (pronounced boo-der), the final station on the line, just north of the Arctic Circle.

我對(duì)“土撥鼠節(jié)”的想法很感興趣，因此將乘坐臥鋪火車從首都奧斯陸出發(fā)，沿300英里長的多夫勒鐵路前往特隆赫姆。再從特隆赫姆出發(fā)，我將轉(zhuǎn)乘諾德蘭鐵路，沿途再蜿蜒450英里到達(dá)博德，也就是這條鐵路位于北極圈內(nèi)的終點(diǎn)站。

The previous day, I arrived in Oslo expecting to find the city alive with noisy beer gardens and gourmet food trucks, and cyclists weaving between them in floaty dresses — but a ghost town awaited. “Everyone leaves in July,” said Fredrik, a waiter at a bookshop cafe. “Most people go to France or Italy or escape to their summer houses. For two to three weeks in July, it’s dead here.”

前一天，我抵達(dá)奧斯陸，本以為這座城市會(huì)充滿喧鬧的啤酒花園和美食卡車，還有穿著飄逸裙子穿梭其間的騎車人，但等待我的卻是一座鬼城。書店咖啡廳的服務(wù)員弗雷德里克說：“每個(gè)人都在七月離開。大多數(shù)人都去了法國或意大利，或者逃回自己的避暑別墅。在七月份的兩到三周里，這里都是死氣沉沉的?！?/b>

Fortunately, the station had a number of restaurants where I could linger until it was time to board the train. Departing promptly from platform four, the service creaked and groaned out of Oslo Central at 11pm, before it relaxed into the journey, an even thump-thump taking us behind warmly lit apartment blocks, the city’s spread of green spaces dense and frequent. It wasn’t long before we pulled east, where the area’s wealth revealed itself in the form of detached, multi-levelled homes with Teslas parked in the driveways and boutique shops on the high streets.

幸運(yùn)的是，火車站有許多餐館，我可以在那里逗留到發(fā)車時(shí)間。列車準(zhǔn)時(shí)從四號(hào)站臺(tái)出發(fā)，晚上11點(diǎn)，列車嘎吱嘎吱地駛出奧斯陸中央火車站，然后緩緩駛?cè)肼猛荆斑?哐”的規(guī)律聲響把我們帶到燈光溫暖的公寓樓后面，這個(gè)城市的綠地紛繁而密集。沒過多久，我們向東駛?cè)?，該地區(qū)的富裕顯露無遺，多層獨(dú)立式住宅的車道上停滿了特斯拉，商業(yè)街上全是精品店。

By midnight, the clouds had darkened and stretched into indigo ripples, but on the horizon, a belt of orange refused to fade, eventually turning pink. As we passed the edge of the Vorma River, a white mist hovered above it until it widened into Lake Mj?sa, Norway’s largest lake. Still as glass, it appeared silver in the twilight, the outline of fishing boats just visible on its surface. Unable to look away, I sat at the window eyeing the pink glow, determined not to lose it as it flashed in and out between rising mountain peaks until the train barrelled into a wild expanse of darkness and the lake vanished from view.

午夜時(shí)分，云層已經(jīng)變暗，延伸成靛藍(lán)色的漣漪，但在地平線上，一條橙色的帶子卻遲遲不肯褪去，最終變成了粉紅色。當(dāng)我們經(jīng)過沃馬河的邊緣時(shí)，白霧在河面上盤旋，直到河面變寬，匯入挪威最大的湖泊--米約薩湖。湖面靜如玻璃，在暮色中顯得銀光閃閃，湖面上漁船的輪廓清晰可見。我目不轉(zhuǎn)睛地坐在窗前，注視著那粉紅色的光芒，下定決心一定不能錯(cuò)過它在高聳的山峰間忽隱忽現(xiàn)的身影，直到火車駛?cè)胍黄岷诘幕囊?，湖面消失于視野?/b>

On any other night, I’d have taken myself off to bed, but even at 12.30am, the dining car was busy, passengers tuned into the summer vibe. Two young women shared a bottle of rosé, amusing each other with stories of terrible dates, while an elderly couple sipped beer, their matching Merrell sandals suggesting a walking trip ahead. Meanwhile, two dishevelled parents boarded with twin toddlers asleep in buggies, their fat little feet bare in the heat. Just before 1am I noticed the teen who had been reading in the corner was now on the platform at Brumunddal, wrapped in his father’s embrace. It seemed a fitting point at which to turn in.

如果是別的夜晚，我早就上床睡覺了，但現(xiàn)在即使已經(jīng)凌晨12點(diǎn)30分，餐車?yán)镞€是很熱鬧，乘客們都沉浸在夏日的氛圍中。兩位年輕女士共飲一瓶桃紅葡萄酒，用糟糕的約會(huì)故事取笑對(duì)方；一對(duì)老年夫婦喝著啤酒，他們腳上配套的邁樂(Merrell)涼鞋預(yù)示著他們將進(jìn)行一次徒步旅行。與此同時(shí)，兩位衣衫凌亂的父母帶著在嬰兒車?yán)锸焖碾p胞胎幼兒上了車，在炎熱的天氣里孩子們光著肥嘟嘟的小腳丫。臨近凌晨1點(diǎn)，我注意到那個(gè)一直在角落里看書的孩子現(xiàn)在正躺在布魯門達(dá)爾站的站臺(tái)上，被父親摟在懷里?，F(xiàn)在似乎是一個(gè)適合入睡的時(shí)間點(diǎn)了。

Debating whether to pull down the blackout blind in my compartment, I finally left it open, too nervous to risk sleeping through to Trondheim and missing the scenery. Quiet, with barely a jolt, the service was one of the most comfortable sleeper trains I’d ever ridden. Still, at 3.20am, as we passed through Dovre National Park, I sacrificed my slumber to watch peach clouds beginning to warm the tops of mountains and reflect onto the lakes.

我猶豫著是否要拉下車廂里的遮光簾，最后還是沒拉，因?yàn)槲疫€是憂心，不想冒錯(cuò)過風(fēng)景直接睡到特隆赫姆才醒的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)。列車很安靜，也幾乎沒有顛簸，是我乘坐過的最舒適的臥鋪火車之一。不過，凌晨3點(diǎn)20分，當(dāng)我們經(jīng)過多夫雷費(fèi)爾國家公園時(shí)，我還是犧牲了安眠，去看桃紅色的云朵開始溫暖山頂，倒映在湖面。

Local source

當(dāng)?shù)芈糜钨Y源
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


It’s 7am and golden light is flooding dewy meadows, with long shadows stretching over the train and halos of mist swirling in the valleys. I’m joined by Lars and Astrid, who are travelling to Trondheim for a weekend break of eating and walking — “before we have children and they ruin everything,” says Lars, as Astrid pulls a face. “Like Oslo, it’ll be quiet,” she says, “but we like that.”

現(xiàn)在是早上7點(diǎn)，金色的陽光灑滿了露珠般的草地，長長的影子在火車上延伸，霧氣在山谷中翻騰。拉斯和阿斯特麗德以及我，要前往特隆赫姆度過一個(gè)邊逛邊吃的周末假期--“趁我們還沒有孩子，還沒被他們毀掉一切，”拉斯說，阿斯特麗德則拉著臉?！昂蛫W斯陸一樣，這里會(huì)很安靜，”她說，“但我們喜歡這樣?！?/b>

They tell me it’s a different story in August, when chefs come from all over the country to cook at the Tr?ndelag Food Festival, and the crowds follow. The city is known as the food capital of Norway and has three Michelin-starred restaurants — Credo, Fagn and Speilsalen. This is another reason why I’m breaking up my journey with a night here.

他們告訴我，八月的特倫德拉格美食節(jié)上，廚師們從全國各地趕來烹飪美食，人潮也隨之而來。這座城市被譽(yù)為挪威的美食之都，擁有三家米其林星級(jí)餐廳--Credo、Fagn和Speilsalen。這也是我為什么要中斷旅程在這里住上一晚的另一個(gè)原因。
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


“You should visit Sellanraa Bok & Bar,” says Astrid. “It’s very seasonal and everything is from the surrounding region, so you’ll get a taste of the local flavours.” She sketches directions to it in my notebook before spotting the convergence of railway tracks. “We’re here,” she says, sliding out from the table and wishing me a happy onward journey.

阿斯特麗德說：“你應(yīng)該去瑟蘭拉咖啡館。這里非常注重季節(jié)性，所有菜品都來自周邊地區(qū)，因此你可以品嘗到當(dāng)?shù)仫L(fēng)味?！彼谖业墓P記本上勾畫出了去那里的路線，然后就看到了鐵軌的交匯處?！拔覀兊搅?，”她說著，從桌邊滑出，并祝我一路順風(fēng)。



圖：尼德爾瓦河畔風(fēng)景如畫、色彩柔和的房屋，前面?？恐?。
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


The coastal freshness slaps me awake as I cross the bridge over the Nidelva River into town, pausing to take in the promenade — a strip of six-storey buildings stretched out like a Dulux colour palette, sailboats tethered in the foreground. From here, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Britannia Hotel, and I’m hoping my room is ready. As much as sleeper trains fulfil the fantasy of romance, they do come with a downside: for passengers returning home, it’s no bother to arrive in the small hours and head straight off for a hot shower and breakfast. But for those of us who are strangers to a destination, perhaps waking less than refreshed, it can often mean mooching around with bags, killing time in coffee shops until check-in. Fortunately, my room is available and I sleep for a couple of hours before experiencing one of the greatest breakfasts of my life.

當(dāng)我穿過尼德爾瓦河上的大橋進(jìn)入小鎮(zhèn)時(shí)，海岸的清新氣息讓我清醒過來，我駐足欣賞海濱長廊--一條由六層樓高的建筑組成的長廊像多樂士的調(diào)色板一樣延伸開來，帆船拴在前景處。從這里步行10分鐘即可到達(dá)不列顛尼亞酒店，希望我的房間已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好了。雖然臥鋪火車滿足了人們對(duì)浪漫的幻想，但它也有缺點(diǎn)：對(duì)于回家的乘客來說，凌晨時(shí)分抵達(dá)，然后直接去洗個(gè)熱水澡、吃頓早餐，也不算麻煩。但對(duì)于我們這些對(duì)目的地一無所知的人來說，也許一覺醒來還沒來得及養(yǎng)足精神，這往往意味著在檢票之前，要拎著行李在咖啡館里打發(fā)時(shí)間。幸運(yùn)的是，我的房間準(zhǔn)備好了，我睡了幾個(gè)小時(shí)，然后就體驗(yàn)到了人生中最美味的早餐之一。

There are also comically large rounds of local cheeses on cake stands alongside rumpled bries and crumbly blues. There’s cheese that’s speckled, seeded, hard, soft, made from ewe’s milk, cow’s milk and goat’s milk, then on the side, dollops of preserve, quince and jam. It’s almost overwhelming.

蛋糕架上擺放著有些滑稽的大塊當(dāng)?shù)啬汤?，旁邊還有皺巴巴的布里奶酪和碎藍(lán)莓。有斑點(diǎn)的、有籽的、有硬的、有軟的、有母羊奶做的、有牛奶做的、有山羊奶做的，邊上還擺放著各種果醬、榅桲果醬等等。讓人應(yīng)接不暇，無法抗拒。

I sit down with Olav Svarliaunet, a junior sous-chef who takes part in August’s three-day food festival. “We only use local produce here and everything is labelled to show where it’s from,” he says. The hotel has its own farm, Braattan Gaard, about half an hour’s drive away. It has more than 5,000 apple trees, which provide the cold-press juice for breakfast. “We get a lot of produce from the mountain village of R?ros, two hours south of here, including eggs, cream, milk, butter and all our cured meats and fish,” Olav says. With the exception of perhaps a few tropical fruits like pineapple, everything is Norwegian.

我與奧拉夫-斯瓦利亞內(nèi)特坐在一起，他是一名將參加八月份為期三天美食節(jié)的初級(jí)副廚師長。他說：“我們只使用本地產(chǎn)品，每樣?xùn)|西都貼了標(biāo)簽，標(biāo)明產(chǎn)地。”酒店擁有自己的農(nóng)場Braattan Gaard，距離酒店約半小時(shí)車程。農(nóng)場有5000多棵蘋果樹，為早餐提供冷壓果汁?！拔覀儚哪厦鎯尚r(shí)車程的勒羅斯山村采購大量農(nóng)產(chǎn)品，包括雞蛋、奶油、牛奶、黃油以及所有腌肉和魚。”奧拉夫說，除了菠蘿等幾種熱帶水果外，其他都是挪威產(chǎn)的。

Trondheim has switched to summer mode and many of its restaurants are closed, but this gives me the chance to see more of the place. I amble along cobbled streets filled with walkers, wet retrievers trotting at their heels. It’s unusually warm as I embark upon the Midtbyrunden, a 3.7-mile trail that meanders around the city centre following the Trondheim Fjord and Nidelva River. A beautiful route, it takes me over bridges and around docks, where swimmers yelp in the chilly waters. I linger in the wharf neighbourhood of Bakklandet, sipping an iced chilli chocolate milk from Dromedar Kaffebar before browsing a range of shops selling everything from artisan soap to cashmere blankets. Painted in soft pinks and sage greens, some of the timber houses look empty, their walls covered by trailing blooms of roses and their ledges lined with boxes of buttery yellow flowers.

特隆赫姆已經(jīng)進(jìn)入夏季模式，許多餐館都關(guān)門了，但這給了我更多機(jī)會(huì)去看看這個(gè)地方。我漫步在鵝卵石鋪就的街道上，街上到處都是散步的人，濕漉漉的尋回犬緊隨其后小跑著。當(dāng)我踏上米特比倫登時(shí)，天氣異常溫暖，這條3.7英里長的小徑沿著特隆赫姆峽灣和尼德爾瓦河蜿蜒在市中心。這條路線風(fēng)景優(yōu)美，沿途經(jīng)過橋梁和碼頭，有游泳者在寒冷的河水中嬉戲。我在巴克蘭迪斯碼頭區(qū)流連忘返，在Dromedar咖啡廳喝了一杯冰鎮(zhèn)辣椒巧克力牛奶，然后逛了逛從手工肥皂到羊絨毯子等各種精品店。一些木制房屋粉刷成柔和的粉紅色和鼠尾草綠，看上去空空蕩蕩，墻壁上掛滿了曳地盛開的玫瑰，窗臺(tái)上擺滿了一盒盒黃油色的花朵。

By the end of the walk, I’ve worked off breakfast and decide to take Astrid’s advice and seek out Sellanraa Bok & Bar. The menu is mostly vegetarian, featuring colourful plates of sliced hasselback carrots with baked shallots and turnips, most of which is sourced from nearby Grindal Farm. Inside, it’s a cross between a bookshop and a pantry — the top shelves are lined with jars of oranges and chanterelles brewing in murky yellow brines, sitting alongside hardbacks of Elif Batuman’s The Idiot and Albert Camus’ The Plague. Over a plate of fresh shrimp and shaved fennel, I reflect how easy it’s been to while away the day, grazing on small dishes between bursts of windy walks along the coast.

散步結(jié)束時(shí)，我已經(jīng)吃完了早餐，決定聽從阿斯特麗德的建議，去瑟蘭拉咖啡館吃點(diǎn)東西。這里的菜單以素食為主，有五顏六色的赫塞爾貝克胡蘿卜片配烤香蔥和蕪菁，其中大部分都來自附近的格林達(dá)爾農(nóng)場。餐廳內(nèi)部位于書店和儲(chǔ)藏室之間--最上層的架子上擺滿了橘子罐子和在渾濁的黃色鹽水中醞釀的雞油菌，旁邊還有埃利夫-巴圖曼的《白癡》和阿爾伯特-加繆的《瘟疫》等精裝書。吃著一盤新鮮的蝦和茴香，我回想著在海岸邊吹著風(fēng)的散步間隙，吃著小菜消磨時(shí)光的日子是多么愜意。

The journey north

北上之旅

The following evening, I’m on the platform just before 11pm to board the sleeper train to Bod?. On the horizon, the sun threatens to sink, but instead spreads outwards in a pool of mellow yellow, throwing a healthy glow onto passengers’ cheeks. At this time of year, the trains are at capacity and I’d been unsuccessful in trying to book a sleeper carriage. I’d secured a ticket in what’s called ‘Premium Pluss’, where wide seats recline up to 45 degrees and you’re provided with blankets, pillows, a hot breakfast and unlimited hot drinks.

第二天晚上11點(diǎn)前，我從站臺(tái)登上了開往博德的臥鋪火車。在地平線上，太陽將要沉入地下，但卻向外擴(kuò)散出一抹柔和的黃色，給乘客的臉頰帶來健康的光彩。每年的這個(gè)時(shí)候，火車都會(huì)滿員，我一直試圖預(yù)訂臥鋪車廂，但都沒有成功。我買到了一張名為“優(yōu)享+”（Premium Pluss）的車票，這里寬大的座椅可以傾斜45度，還提供毯子、枕頭、熱早餐和無限量熱飲。



圖：從奧斯陸到特隆赫姆的火車在臥鋪車廂外設(shè)有下拉式座椅。
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://mintwatchbillionaireclub.com 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


Within minutes, the sweaty fear of not being able to lie flat at any point of this leg of the journey has evaporated, and I’m snuggled up in what feels like the cosiest carriage on the train, my fellow passengers pulling on hoodies and watching films on their phones. Tor, the attendant from the previous leg, is back on board and only too pleased to demonstrate the nifty foot rests, side tables and reading lights. He takes my order for breakfast and directs me to the tail end of the train to see the tracks snake off into what’s almost a sunset. From the back window, I watch as we curl around the edge of the Trondheim Fjord, its waters orange and pink. There’s a sense of magic as the light deepens and intensifies, before simmering to a softness I’ve never witnessed before. A feeling of in-betweenness gets under my skin as I stand with one foot on either side of two carriages, watching the day not turn into night as our train crosses the joints and hinges of the land, waterways flowing in from all sides.

短短幾分鐘內(nèi)，對(duì)在這段旅途中任何時(shí)候都無法平躺的汗流浹背的恐懼就煙消云散了，我感覺是依偎在火車上最舒適的車廂里，我的同伴們穿著連帽衫，用手機(jī)看著電影。上一段旅程的乘務(wù)員托爾又回到了車上，他非常高興地向我展示了舒適的腳踏板、邊桌和閱讀燈。他幫我點(diǎn)了早餐，然后把我?guī)У交疖囄膊?，讓我看鐵軌蜿蜒而去，宛如夕陽西下。從后窗望去，我們繞著特隆赫姆峽灣的邊緣蜿蜒前行，峽灣的海水呈現(xiàn)出橙色和粉紅色。隨著光線的加深和增強(qiáng)，然后慢慢變得柔和，有一種我從未見過的神奇的感覺。當(dāng)我兩腳分開站立在兩節(jié)車廂的兩側(cè)，看著我們的列車穿過大地的關(guān)節(jié)和結(jié)合處，水道從四面八方匯過來，白晝也不再變成黑夜，一種居于天地之間的感覺油然而生。

This Nordland line crosses 293 bridges and runs through 154 tunnels, much of which I miss as I doze off at 1am, waking five hours later as sunlight pours across the Ranfjorden, a wide-mouthed body of water that swings around the base of forested mountains, its green depths bubbling with life.

這條北歐鐵路穿過了293座橋梁和154個(gè)隧道，我在凌晨1點(diǎn)打瞌睡時(shí)錯(cuò)過了其中的很多內(nèi)容，5個(gè)小時(shí)后醒來時(shí)，陽光已經(jīng)灑滿蘭恩峽灣，這是一片廣闊的水域，在森林覆蓋的山腳下蕩來蕩去，綠色的深處充滿生機(jī)。

Once again, I take myself off to the dining car, the beating heart of every sleeper train, and over a hot salami sandwich, I get chatting to Ludwig Herder, who’s been sleeping in the play area of the family carriage. A sailor for the coastguard, living in Troms?, Ludwig has adamantly refused to fly for the past 15 years. When I ask about his choice of sleeping compartment, he looks sheepish and laughs, retying his pony tail as he gathers his thoughts. “Everyone has the time to travel in summer, so it gets very booked up. And it’s impossible to get a sleeper compartment because you can’t just buy a single bed, you have to buy both the berths.” He pulls out his phone and shows me a Norwegian Facebook group where passengers share their travelling dates to see if they can buddy up in compartments. “Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t get one,” he says.

我再次來到餐車，這里是臥鋪火車的心臟，吃著熱騰騰的臘腸三明治，我和路德維希-赫德聊了起來，他一直睡在家庭車廂的游戲區(qū)。路德維格是海岸警衛(wèi)隊(duì)的一名水手，住在特羅姆瑟，過去15年來一直堅(jiān)定地拒絕乘坐飛機(jī)。當(dāng)我問起他選擇睡游戲區(qū)的原因時(shí)，他一臉靦腆地笑了笑，一邊整理思緒，一邊重新扎起了馬尾辮?！跋奶齑蠹叶加袝r(shí)間去旅行，所以包廂都訂滿了。而且不可能買到臥鋪車廂，因?yàn)槟悴荒苤毁I一張單人床，必須得買兩個(gè)鋪位?！彼贸鍪謾C(jī)，向我展示了一個(gè)挪威的Facebook群組，在這個(gè)群組里，乘客們分享他們的旅行日期，看看他們是否能在包廂里結(jié)伴而行。他說：“盡管我盡了最大努力，但還是沒能找到一個(gè)。”

Located 220 miles inside the Arctic Circle, Troms? is at the top of the country. Here, both the midnight sun and the Northern Lights are at their finest. “My girlfriend likes to hike and I enjoy going skiing,” Ludwig says. “In June, there was still more than six feet of powder to ski on at night.” He gets off at Fauske station, from where it’s a six-hour bus ride to Narvik and then a four-hour ride to Troms?. With that journey ahead of him, I can’t help but marvel at his dedication to being flight-free.

特羅姆瑟位于北極圈內(nèi)220英里處，是挪威的最高點(diǎn)。在這里，午夜陽光和極光都是最美的。路德維格說：“我的女朋友喜歡徒步旅行，而我喜歡滑雪。六月份的時(shí)候，晚上還有六英尺多厚的積雪可以滑雪?！彼诟ビ谒箍苏鞠萝嚕瑥哪抢镒鶄€(gè)小時(shí)的汽車到納爾維克，然后再坐四個(gè)小時(shí)的汽車到特羅姆瑟。他的旅程還在繼續(xù)，我不禁感嘆他對(duì)不坐飛機(jī)的執(zhí)著。

From my window seat, I try to breathe in the final sights of the trip — of deer bounding across fields, and fjords rushing past below. As towns flit by, I’m reminded again that it’s the particular privilege of the train traveller to witness the intricate details of other people’s lives: the workman repainting a church spire, the couple kissing on a platform, the patterns on kitchen curtains.

在靠窗的座位上，我努力在旅途最后中的景色里呼吸--鹿群在田野間奔跑，峽灣在腳下奔騰。當(dāng)城鎮(zhèn)飛馳向后時(shí)，我再次意識(shí)到，火車旅行者有幸目睹他人生活中錯(cuò)綜復(fù)雜的細(xì)節(jié)：重新粉刷教堂尖頂?shù)墓と恕⒄九_(tái)上接吻的情侶、廚房窗簾上的圖案。

And then it’s over. Just before 9am, we terminate at Bod?, and my train family and I disembark — fishing gear and bikes are unloaded and dogs happily stretch their legs.

然后就結(jié)束了。上午9點(diǎn)前，我們抵達(dá)博德，我和我的列車家人們下了火車--漁具和自行車被卸下，狗兒們開心地伸著懶腰。

Within an hour, it’s clear this is a junction town that most travellers pass through for its easy access to the outdoors: taking a ferry to the Lofoten Islands, hiking the glacier at Svartisen or fishing and scuba diving at Saltstraumen, home to the world’s strongest maelstrom, or whirlpool. Feeling the cumulative lack of sleep, and having centred the majority of my trip on food, my own plans involve little more than a walk along the marina with an ice cream from the local van. I follow this up with a search for presents for my children, who’ll have to make do with a compass and a stuffed toy moose. That is until I realise I’m travelling home by train and can take them a bag of baked kanelboller (plump knots of sticky cinnamon bread, dusted with sugar) from P?Pir BibliotekBar, the cafe at Bod?’s library.

不到一個(gè)小時(shí)，我們就發(fā)現(xiàn)這是一個(gè)大多數(shù)旅行者都會(huì)經(jīng)過的交界小鎮(zhèn)，因?yàn)檫@里的戶外活動(dòng)非常方便：乘坐渡輪前往羅弗敦群島，在斯瓦蒂森山的冰川徒步旅行，或者在薩爾特流釣魚和潛水，這里有世界上最強(qiáng)的漩渦。由于睡眠不足，加上旅途的大部分時(shí)間都集中在美食上，我自己的計(jì)劃只是沿著碼頭散散步，從當(dāng)?shù)氐拿姘嚿腺I一個(gè)冰淇淋。接下來，我還要為孩子們尋找禮物，只能用指南針和麋鹿毛絨玩具來湊合了。直到我意識(shí)到我要坐火車回家，可以給他們帶一袋博德P?Pir圖書館的咖啡廳烤的肉桂面包（粘乎乎的肉桂面包，撒了糖）。

After a walk around the town’s parks, I’m geared up for dinner at Lystp?, a fine-dining restaurant, but a particularly relaxed one with throws and cushions. Served on slate plates are starters such as pan-fried scallops fizzing in mussel bisque and truffle croquettes followed by mains like perfectly seared reindeer. By the time I’m cracking into creme brulee and homemade doughnuts, that deep orange glow I’m getting so used to here catches my eye; enriching and invigorating, it brings a sense of calm and joy. No wonder Norwegians stay out all night basking in its goodness. Micha? M?ynarczyk, who runs the restaurant, tells me now’s the time to visit Keiservarden, one of the area’s most popular hiking destinations. I’m ready to walk off the meal, but at 11pm? “There’s no better time — everyone does it,” he says.

在鎮(zhèn)上的公園散步后，我準(zhǔn)備去Lystp?吃晚飯，這是一家高級(jí)餐廳，但擺放著毛毯和靠墊，顯得格外輕松。用石板盤子盛放的開胃菜有貽貝濃湯煎扇貝和松露炸丸子，然后是像烤馴鹿一樣的主菜。當(dāng)我開始品嘗奶油布丁和自制甜甜圈時(shí)，我的眼前浮現(xiàn)出一種我在這里已經(jīng)習(xí)以為常的深橘色光芒；這種光芒既豐富又振奮人心，給人帶來一種平靜和愉悅的感覺。難怪挪威人徹夜不眠，沉浸在它的美好之中。經(jīng)營這家餐廳的米哈烏-米納奇克告訴我，現(xiàn)在正是去凱瑟瓦爾登的好時(shí)候，那里是該地區(qū)最受歡迎的徒步旅行目的地之一。我已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好結(jié)束這頓飯了，但現(xiàn)在是晚上11點(diǎn)？他說：“沒有比這更好的時(shí)間了，每個(gè)人都會(huì)這么做。”

And so I set off, crossing paths with runners and families as I begin the ascent of Veten hill, the skies burning as though the horizon’s set alight. Young children carrying sticks and leaves from their hikes skip past me, hopping over tree roots, and in just under an hour, I’ve reached the top of Keiservarden mountain plateau, where dogs run around in the wind and climbers stare out at the soft outline of the Lofoten and Steigen islands. There’s a smell of salt in the air and nothing but the sound of the wind whipping as I turn slowly, taking in the view of hazy mountains that descend into waters of pure gold. Here, in the far north, the midnight sun turns dark red and I stare at it dipping behind the clouds for a few moments. I turn and make my way back down the track at 1am, just as the sun begins to rise again.

于是我出發(fā)了，在開始攀登維滕山時(shí)，我與跑步者和家人們擦肩而過，天空灼熱得仿佛地平線被點(diǎn)燃了。背著登山樹枝和樹葉的孩子們從我身邊跳過，在樹根上跳來跳去，不到一個(gè)小時(shí)，我就到達(dá)了凱瑟爾瓦登山頂，狗在風(fēng)中奔跑，登山者凝視著羅弗敦島和斯泰根島柔和的輪廓?？諝庵袕浡}的味道，只有風(fēng)呼嘯的聲音，我慢慢地轉(zhuǎn)過身，朦朧的群山盡收眼底，山下是純凈的金色海水。在這里，在這極北之地，午夜的太陽變成了暗紅色，我一直凝視著它從云層后傾瀉而下。凌晨1點(diǎn)，當(dāng)太陽又開始升起時(shí)，我轉(zhuǎn)身沿著來時(shí)的路回去了。